咖啡學堂 / 烘焙知識 / Aillio Bullet R1 / R2 咖啡烘焙中的美拉德階段:泛黃、加熱和風味

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Aillio Bullet R1 / R2 咖啡烘焙中的美拉德階段:泛黃、加熱和風味

在 Aillio Bullet R1 / R2 上,我不將美拉德階段視為固定時間目標。更重要的是,泛黃溫度告訴我們有關表面濕度的資訊、熱量如何繼續穿過咖啡豆各層,以及隨著功率和氣流的調整,RoR 是否保持在受控下降狀態。

在 Aillio Bullet R1 / R2 上,我不將美拉德階段視為固定時間目標。更重要的是,泛黃溫度告訴我們有關表面濕度的資訊、熱量如何繼續穿過咖啡豆各層,以及隨著功率和氣流的調整,RoR 是否保持在受控下降狀態。

本文解釋了我如何解釋泛黃、水分、傳熱和美拉德反應,以及為什麼簡單地延長美拉德階段並不能保證更多的甜度。

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什麼是美拉德反應?

在 Aillio 的 RoasTime 軟體中,一旦我們按下泛黃按鈕,軟體就會自動將泛黃和初裂之間的時間段標記為美拉德。

美拉德反應不是單一的化學反應,而是還原糖與胺基酸或其他含氨基化合物在加熱下發生反應時開始的一系列複雜反應。初始產物繼續重新排列、分解和聚合,同時也與 Strecker 降解等途徑相互作用,最終產生大量具有不同香氣和性質的化合物。

在這些化合物中,吡嗪類通常與烘烤和堅果的香氣聯絡在一起,呋喃可以帶來甜味、焦糖味或麵包味,並且史特雷克醛可能產生麥芽味、蜂蜜味、堅果味或可可味特徵。在反應的後期階段,棕色高分子量化合物稱為類黑素也都形成了。這些會影響豆子的顏色,也可能影響口感和其他感官特徵。然而,咖啡風味並不是任何單一化合物決定的。它取決於許多不同化合物的型別、比例、濃度和氣味閾值。

咖啡中的美拉德反應並不是變黃的那一刻突然開始的,也不是隻在所謂的美拉德階段發生。溫度、濕度、pH值、反應物的可用性以及熱量到達咖啡豆不同層的程度都會影響反應速率和形成的化合物。因此,簡單地延長變黃和初裂之間的時間並不一定會增加甜味或產生更理想的風味。

泛黃溫度告訴我們什麼?

您是否注意到每種咖啡的變黃溫度都不同?即使是同一種咖啡,不同烘焙方式的泛黃溫度有時也會有所不同。

如《水分與烘焙顏色的關係》中所提到的,水分與褐變本身並沒有非常明顯的關係。您可能嚐過因水分過多而帶有植物苦味的咖啡,但烘焙後顏色仍然很深。

幸運的是,IBTS 可以為我們提供一些有關咖啡豆表面水分狀況的資訊。根據我的經驗,泛黃時較高的 IBTS 讀數通常表示表面水分較少。然而,這僅反映了豆子表面的狀況。這並不意味著:

  1. 整個咖啡豆已達到相同的溫度。
  2. 豆芯已完成乾燥。
  3. 美拉德反應在那一刻突然開始。

與水洗咖啡相比,我烘焙的天然加工咖啡通常在較高的IBTS溫度下會出現黃化。除了水分的差異外,我相信這也可能與糖含量有關。在乾燥和收穫後加工過程中,天然加工咖啡中的一些糖可能會被微生物消耗。因此,達到相似水平的焦糖化或褐變可能需要更高的溫度。

對我來說,變黃溫度也可以幫助預測初裂溫度。較低的泛黃溫度通常對應於較低的初裂溫度。泛黃溫度太高或太低都不太理想,因為美拉德反應需要一定的水分,但過多的水分也會幹擾化學反應。

對於我烘焙的天然加工咖啡,泛黃通常發生在 IBTS 175–180°C 左右,而水洗咖啡通常在 IBTS 168–173°C 左右泛黃。

我的 IBTS 讀數一般約為比許多其他使用者報告的溫度高出 6°C,但這並不影響我們對烘焙的掌握。我的是第一代 IBTS。雖然我之前已經更換過感測器,但它的讀數看起來仍然與最新的IBTS有些不同。我也看到 Aillio Bullet 使用者組中的其他使用者報告了類似的經歷。

咖啡烘焙中的黃點:時間還是溫度比較有用?

在比較同一咖啡的不同批次時,我使用黃點時間。在比較不同的咖啡時,我更關注泛黃溫度。

第一次烘焙咖啡時,我利用生豆的視覺線索來粗略估計可能出現第一裂紋的位置。這就是為什麼我特別注意泛黃溫度。根據我的經驗,泛黃溫度可以提供可能的首次裂紋溫度的一些指示,從而影響我計劃後續功率降低和氣流增加的方式。它甚至會影響我如何配置未來的咖啡烘焙。

但是,生咖啡的視覺提示並不總是準確的。這黃變溫度, 另一方面,通常是一個更可靠的訊號。這就是我看到黃變溫度的真正價值的地方。

如何識別黃變點

初學者常常很難判斷黃點的顏色。他們也可能將變黃的時間和溫度視為直接決定風味的嚴格規則或基準。人們很容易受到科學和數字的過度影響,並假設烘焙必須在特定時間或溫度下達到泛黃才能「正確」。

即便如此,烘焙商仍可使用泛黃時間作為實際參考點。然而,這個參考不應該用來同時比較不同的咖啡和不同的烘焙機。更具建設性的比較包括:

  1. 同樣的咖啡在不同的天氣條件下烘焙
  2. 同樣的咖啡在不同的烘焙機上烘焙
  3. 不同的咖啡在同一臺機器上烘焙

當參考點與杯子中的口味一起評估時,這些比較變得更有意義。請記住,僅靠變黃時間和變黃溫度並不能證明咖啡豆內部已經達到什麼狀態。

在甜蜜瑪麗亞的文章中“用肉眼判斷烘焙程度,”標記為“4) 的影象。黃棕階段 6:30 – 345F (173.9°C)」顯示淡黃色,帶有一些白色小斑點。這接近我按下泛黃按鈕時的顏色。

當咖啡變黃時,烘焙的香氣通常會從綠豆、青草或潮濕的氣味轉變為乾燥的穀物或麵包的香氣。據我掌握,此時咖啡豆也更接近橡膠狀態。在我的 Bullet 上,這種情況通常發生在 IBTS 170–180°C 左右。咖啡豆在這個範圍內釋放出大量的水蒸氣,然後逐漸變硬。上面的“咖啡烘焙中的玻璃化轉變:溫度和濕度如何改變咖啡豆結構”部分更詳細地解釋了咖啡豆的玻璃態和橡膠態。

根據我的經驗,咖啡豆在烘焙過程中往往會在兩個 IBTS 溫度範圍內釋放大量水蒸氣:130–140°C 和 170–180°C。這些也是烘焙商應該密切關注RoR是否突然大幅下降的點。烘焙商通常希望避免突然的 RoR 崩潰。有關碰撞後果的更多資訊,請參閱“咖啡烘焙中的輕彈、崩潰與停滯 RoR.”

烘焙師在美拉德階段該做什麼?

在美拉德階段我們能做的就是遵循烘焙的自然過程。在上面的「時間控制方面烘焙科學的盲點」部分中,我解釋了這個概念的含義。

在 ”為什麼RoR會逐漸下降,「 我寫:

“如果烘焙過程中 RoR 持續以穩定的斜率下降,則意味著水分不斷釋放。”

這是我透過長期的烘焙經驗總結出的一種解讀烘焙的方式。進入美拉德階段後,咖啡豆的外層逐漸變得更硬,遠離更有彈性的狀態。隨著外層變硬,釋放的水蒸氣量逐漸減少,持續水分流失所造成的RoR自然下降趨勢也變弱。因此,如果烘焙機不採取任何措施,RoR 不會自動按照我們想要的斜率繼續下降。

因此,我們需要採取行動。

為了使 Aillio Bullet R1 / R2 上的 RoR 逐漸下降,烘焙機可以使用的兩個最直接的調整是減少功率和增加功率氣流. (]。請盡量避免改變滾筒速度。 )但這兩個調整應該如何結合呢?用功率控制烘焙和用氣流控制烘焙有什麼區別?

許多烘焙機保持低氣流,主要依靠降低功率來降低 RoR。其他人則在整個烘焙過程中保持高功率,並逐漸將氣流增加到最大,以降低 RoR。這種高功率、高氣流的方法通常與模仿北歐烘焙風格的嘗試聯絡在一起。

哪種方法比較好?

這兩種方法本身都不是理想的。 降低功率和增加氣流需要一起使用.

降低功率和增加氣流有助於降低RoR,但這些調整的時機和幅度是高度動態的。它們取決於咖啡、批次大小、熱源、氣流和烘焙目標。這是每個烘焙師實用知識的一部分。

降低功率和增加氣流的結合方式與最終的風味有直接關係。我將在會員部分詳細解釋這一點。

許多烘焙師花費大量時間討論不同類別的分子和風味之間的關係。我同意在合理範圍內討論這些主題是有價值的。但如果我們走得太遠,討論不可避免地超出了我們在實踐中能夠實際掌握和控制的範圍。

烘焙咖啡含有超過 1,000 種化學物質。我們實際上能控制的要有限得多。從廣義上講,我認為我們可以影響三件事:

  1. 有多少風土特徵和水分含量可以參與化學反應
  2. 熱能到達不同層的深度
  3. 熱能強度

第三點,熱強度,影響這些化合物被熱轉化的強度。熱量過多或過少都會導致烘焙缺陷。在「Aillio Bullet R1 / R2上的烘烤缺陷」中,我更詳細地解釋了熱量過多和熱量不足。

帕卡馬拉咖啡豆在 Café Naturêve 冷卻盤中

下豆後的冷卻問題

咖啡豆在離開滾筒後繼續保留熱量。更快的冷卻有助於保持您想要的烘焙終點。

如何烘焙

準備好將這些想法付諸實踐了嗎?

按照我的分步指南在 Aillio Bullet R1 / R2 上進行烘焙,從掌握您的咖啡到閱讀烘焙概況並決定何時結束烘焙。

隨時參考本文

歡迎您參考或借鏡本文中的想法。如果您這樣做,請附上 Café Naturêve 原始文章的連結。

文章問答

什麼是美拉德反應?

在 Aillio 的 RoasTime 軟體中,一旦我們按下泛黃按鈕,軟體就會自動將泛黃和初裂之間的時間段標記為美拉德。

泛黃溫度告訴我們什麼?

您是否注意到每種咖啡的變黃溫度都不同?即使是同一種咖啡,不同烘焙方式的泛黃溫度有時也會有所不同。

咖啡烘焙的黃點:時間和溫度哪個比較有用?

在比較同一咖啡的不同批次時,我使用黃點時間。在比較不同的咖啡時,我更關注泛黃溫度。

烘焙師在美拉德階段該做什麼?

在美拉德階段我們能做的就是遵循烘焙的自然過程。在上面的「時間控制方面烘焙科學的盲點」部分中,我解釋了這個概念的含義。

查看英文原文

On the Aillio Bullet R1 / R2, I do not treat the Maillard phase as a fixed time target. What matters more is what yellowing temperature tells us about surface moisture, how heat continues moving through the bean’s layers, and whether RoR remains in a controlled decline as power and airflow are adjusted.

This article explains how I interpret yellowing, moisture, heat transfer, and the Maillard reaction together—and why simply extending the Maillard phase does not guarantee more sweetness.

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What Is the Maillard Reaction?

In Aillio’s RoasTime software, once we press the Yellowing button, the software automatically labels the period between Yellowing and First Crack as Maillard.

The Maillard reaction is not a single chemical reaction, but a complex series of reactions that begins when reducing sugars react with amino acids or other amino-containing compounds under heat. The initial products continue to rearrange, break down, and polymerize, while also interacting with pathways such as Strecker degradation, eventually producing a large number of compounds with different aromas and properties.

Among these compounds, pyrazines are often associated with roasted and nutty aromas, furans can contribute sweet, caramel-like, or bread-like notes, and Strecker aldehydes may produce malty, honey-like, nutty, or cocoa-like characteristics. In the later stages of the reaction, brown high-molecular-weight compounds known as melanoidins are also formed. These contribute to bean color and may also influence mouthfeel and other sensory characteristics. However, coffee flavor is not determined by any single compound. It depends on the types, proportions, concentrations, and odor thresholds of many different compounds.

The Maillard reaction in coffee does not suddenly begin at the exact moment of yellowing, nor does it occur only during the so-called Maillard phase. Temperature, moisture, pH, the availability of reactants, and the extent to which heat has reached different layers of the bean all influence the reaction rate and the compounds that are formed. Therefore, simply extending the time between yellowing and first crack does not necessarily increase sweetness or produce a more desirable flavor.

What Does Yellowing Temperature Tell Us?

Have you noticed that the yellowing temperature is different for every coffee? Even with the same coffee, the yellowing temperature can sometimes vary from one roast to another.

As mentioned in “The Relationship Between Moisture and Roast Color,” moisture does not have a very obvious relationship with browning itself. You have probably tasted coffee with vegetal bitterness from excessive moisture that still appeared very dark after roasting.

Fortunately, the IBTS can give us some information about the moisture condition at the bean surface. In my experience, a higher IBTS reading at yellowing usually indicates less moisture at the surface. However, this only reflects the condition of the bean surface. It does not mean that:

  1. The entire coffee bean has reached the same temperature.
  2. The bean core has completed drying.
  3. The Maillard reaction suddenly begins at that exact moment.

Compared with washed coffees, the natural-processed coffees I roast usually reach yellowing at a higher IBTS temperature. In addition to differences in moisture, I believe this may also be related to sugar content. During drying and post-harvest processing, some sugars in natural-processed coffees may be consumed by microorganisms. As a result, reaching a similar level of caramelization or browning may require a higher temperature.

For me, yellowing temperature can also help predict first crack temperature. A lower yellowing temperature usually corresponds to a lower first crack temperature. A yellowing temperature that is too high or too low is not ideal, because the Maillard reaction needs some moisture, but too much moisture can also interfere with chemical reactions.

For the natural-processed coffees I roast, yellowing often occurs around IBTS 175–180°C, while washed coffees usually yellow around IBTS 168–173°C.

My IBTS readings are generally about 6°C higher than those reported by many other users, but this does not affect how we understand the roast. Mine is a first-generation IBTS. Although I have replaced the sensor before, its readings still seem somewhat different from those of the latest IBTS. I have also seen other users in the Aillio Bullet Users Group report a similar experience.

Yellowing Point in Coffee Roasting: Is Timing or Temperature More Useful?

When comparing different batches of the same coffee, I use the timing of yellowing. When comparing different coffees, I pay more attention to the yellowing temperature.

When roasting a coffee for the first time, I use visual cues from the green beans to estimate roughly where first crack is likely to occur. This is why I pay particular attention to the yellowing temperature. In my experience, the yellowing temperature can provide some indication of the likely first crack temperature, which then influences how I plan my later power reductions and airflow increases. It can even affect how I configure future roasts of that coffee.

However, visual cues from green coffee are not always accurate. The yellowing temperature, on the other hand, is usually a much more reliable signal. That is where I see the real value of yellowing temperature.

How to Identify the Yellowing Point

Beginners often find it difficult to judge the color of the yellowing point. They may also treat the timing and temperature of yellowing as strict rules or benchmarks that directly determine flavor. It is easy to become overly influenced by science and numbers and assume that a roast must reach yellowing at a certain time or temperature in order to be “correct.”

Even so, roasters can still use yellowing time as a practical reference point. However, this reference should not be used to compare different coffees and different roasting machines all at once. More constructive comparisons would include:

  1. The same coffee roasted under different weather conditions
  2. The same coffee roasted on different roasting machines
  3. Different coffees roasted on the same machine

These comparisons become much more meaningful when the reference points are evaluated together with the flavors in the cup. Remember that yellowing time and yellowing temperature alone cannot prove what state the inside of the coffee bean has reached.

In Sweet Maria’s article “Using Sight to Determine Degree of Roast,” the image labeled “4). Yellow-tan stage 6:30 – 345F (173.9°C)” shows a pale yellow color with some small whitish spots. That is close to the color at which I would press the Yellowing button.

By the time the coffee reaches yellowing, the aroma of the roast usually shifts from green-bean, grassy, or damp smells toward drier grain-like or bread-like aromas. In my understanding, the coffee bean is also closer to a rubbery state at this point. On my Bullet, this usually occurs around IBTS 170–180°C. The beans release a significant amount of water vapor around this range and then gradually become harder afterward. The section above, “Glass Transition in Coffee Roasting: How Temperature and Moisture Change Bean Structure,” explains the glassy and rubbery states of coffee beans in more detail.

In my experience, coffee beans tend to release larger amounts of water vapor around two IBTS temperature ranges during roasting: 130–140°C and 170–180°C. These are also points where roasters should pay closer attention to whether the RoR suddenly drops sharply. A sudden RoR crash is something roasters generally want to avoid. For more about the consequences of a crash, see “Flick, Crash, and Stalled RoR in Coffee Roasting.”

What Should Roasters Do During the Maillard Phase?

What we can do during the Maillard phase is, again, to follow the natural progression of the roast. In the section above, “The Blind Spot in Roast Science When It Comes to Time Control,” I explained what I mean by this concept.

In “Why RoR Should Gradually Decline,” I wrote:

“If the RoR keeps declining at a steady slope during roasting, it means moisture is continuously being released.”

This is a way of interpreting the roast that I have developed through long-term roasting experience. After entering the Maillard phase, the outer layers of the coffee bean gradually become harder as they move away from a more rubbery state. As the outer layers harden, the amount of water vapor being released gradually decreases, and the natural downward trend on the RoR caused by continuous moisture loss also becomes weaker. Therefore, if the roaster does nothing, the RoR will not automatically continue declining at the slope we want.

So, we need to take action.

To keep the RoR gradually declining on the Aillio Bullet R1 / R2, the two most direct adjustments available to the roaster are decreasing power and increasing airflow. (Please try to avoid changing the drum speed as much as possible.) But how should these two adjustments be combined? And what is the difference between controlling the roast with power and controlling it with airflow?

Many roasters keep airflow low and rely mainly on reducing power to bring the RoR down. Others maintain high power throughout the roast and gradually increase airflow to the maximum in order to lower the RoR. This high-power, high-airflow approach is often associated with attempts to imitate a Nordic roast style.

Which approach is better?

Neither is ideal on its own. Power reduction and airflow increase need to be used together.

Reducing power and increasing airflow can help bring the RoR down, but the timing and magnitude of these adjustments are highly dynamic. They depend on the coffee, batch size, heat source, airflow, and roast target. This is part of each roaster’s practical know-how.

The way decreasing power and increasing airflow are combined has a direct relationship with the final flavor. I will explain this in detail in the Member’s Section.

Many roasters spend a great deal of time discussing the relationship between different classes of molecules and flavor. I agree that there is value in discussing these topics to a reasonable extent. But if we go too far, the discussion inevitably exceeds what we can realistically understand and control in practice.

Roasted coffee contains more than 1,000 chemical compounds. What we can actually control is much more limited. Broadly speaking, I think we can influence three things:

  1. How much terroir characteristics and moisture content remain available to participate in chemical reactions
  2. How deeply thermal energy has reached into the different layers
  3. The intensity of the thermal energy

The third point, heat intensity, affects how strongly these compounds are transformed by heat. Too much or too little heat can both lead to roast defects. In “Roast Defects on the Aillio Bullet R1 / R2,” I explain Excessive Heat and Insufficient Heat in more detail.

pacamara coffee beans in cafe natureve cooling tray

Cooling Matters After Drop

Coffee beans continue to retain heat after leaving the drum. Faster cooling helps preserve the roast endpoint you intended.

How to Roast

Ready to Put These Ideas Into Practice?

Follow my step-by-step guide to roasting on the Aillio Bullet R1 / R2, from understanding your coffee to reading the roast profile and deciding when to end the roast.

Feel Free to Reference This Article

You’re welcome to reference or build on the ideas in this article. If you do, please include a link to the original Café Naturêve article.

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